The miraculous fishing grounds of Japanese Snow Crab
living with the sea 1.30.2020
Off the coast of Kyoto Prefecture, there is a seabed that sits at a depth of between 250m and 400m. The seabed resembles a field and is covered with a light mud soil. This soil is rich in plankton, fish and shellfish that crabs feeds on, providing an ideal habitat for the matsuba crabs (snow crabs). Thanks to this natural environment, known as a “miracle fishing grounds,” the snow crabs of the Kyoto by the Sea region are of exceptional quality.
After the crab fishing ban is lifted in early November, many tourists visit Kyoto by the Sea for the sole purpose of eating crab. Crab sashimi, grilled crab, crab shabu-shabu, boiled crab, crab miso, crab shell with sake, etc., are just some of the various ways crab cuisine specialists in this area have developed crab cuisine over the years, and the cooking methods continue to expand. In addition, raw crab dishes are being offered in a lot of places; this was difficult to manage in the past, but because of better fishing methods and system of distribution, dishes like crab sashimi have become popular.
The high quality of crabs in Kyoto by the Sea has certainly been helped by the steady improvement of fishing and distribution methods, but the major factor is the natural environment. In addition to the above-mentioned ideal seabed soil where the matsuba crabs live, the low-temperature and nutrient-rich waters inherent to the Sea of Japan also help create an environment where the crabs can thrive . The matsuba crab habitat off the northern part of Kyoto Prefecture has low water temperatures and contains seawater rich in vital nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus. The deep sea waters of the Pacific side are around 10 ℃ year-round, while the Sea of Japan is around 2 ℃. This is the ideal temperature for snow crabs to be raised in.
| packed with rich-meat
Many locations in Kyoto by the Sea offer high quality crabs with long-legs packed with meat. Kyotango City and Maizuru City are two locations known for their quality. Even when the crab is grilled, the meat maintains it’s texture and flavor.
The fishing grounds are close to the fishing port, and the boat can reach the ideal fishing grounds in about an hour and a half to two hours, so it is also characterized by its high freshness. In addition, freshly molted crabs called water crabs may be poorly clogged and return to the sea without being caught. The female snow crab, seko crab, is also very popular locally, but the crab's flower shape is still a male called Matsuba crab. There is actually another reason why the pine needle crab is delicious.
| Kyoto by the Sea’s crabs thrive in a “protected area”
There are seven 1km square fishing reefs called "protected areas" near the fishing grounds where crab fishing is carried out in Kyoto, the sea. In the reserve, a large amount of stones shaped like tetrapods are piled up in the sand at a depth of 300 meters, so fishing nets cannot be drawn in this area. In fact, crabs grow up in this "protected area" without being attacked by foreign enemies. This has a great impact on the quality of the crab.
Crab fishing in Kyoto by the sea only catches crabs that stick out of the reefs of this reserve, so stable catches and high quality can be maintained.
There used to be a time when overfishing significantly reduced crabs in this area. The catch, which was 200 tons, has been reduced to about 50 tons. After that, a protected area was created to realize a sustainable fishery, and a method was established to catch only the crabs that came out of the area. For this reason, about 150 tons of crabs can now be caught at all times during the period.
This time, we will introduce two brands backed by this ideal fishing ground and fishing method, and a market where you can eat fresh crab unique to the production area.
Taiza Crab, the brand all other snow crabs are measured against
Taiza is a small fishing district of the small town of Tango on the northernmost tip of Kyoto Prefecture. It’s known not only for the seafood, but for rare volcanic formations like Tateiwa (standing rock) and Byobuiwa (folding screeen rock), along with beautiful beaches.
Over time, Taiza crab has come to be recognized as the phantom crab, because of its rarity. These crabs are recognized as being excellent in terms of quality (such as being packed with high-quality meat), but also have the exclusivity of being caught by a scant few ships, five ships to be exact. When it comes to “Taiza Crab” branded crabs (tagged with their own special label), not all the crabs caught in off the shores in Taiza make the cut. The “Taiza Crab” brand is limited to the specific ships that have been tested and proven time and time again. That is, it’s the fishermen that make the brand.
| Sorted one by one on board the ship just before auction
In the Tango region, which includes Taiza, methods for loading water tanks on board the ship were developed so the crabs would be free to scurry about in water while returning to harbor. This was implemented during a time when other areas hadn’t yet thought to do this.
But why let the crabs roam water tanks on the boat? The point is not only to maintain the freshness, but also to allow the crabs to spit mud out on the return trip. Crabs live in the mud and end up consuming it during their time on the seafloor. Because of this, there is often mud in the shell, and in the days when ships did not have water tanks, eating crabs sometimes was accompanied by a grittiness.
The five ships bring back 300 to 500 crabs free to roam their large aquarium, and then inspect them one by one. Several fishermen check the size and meatiness of the crab, as well as checking for scratches or damage, before putting them in their according containers. The sorted snow crabs are immediately transported to the wholesale market, located in the same fishing port, and auctioned one hour later.
| One crab connoisseur ranks the crabs into more than forty different levels
After being brought to the wholesale market, the most discerning fishermen on each vessel will once again carry out a thorough check and ranking. This level of judgement, of course, requires skill and expertise. The ranking can be as discerning as including 40 to 50 levels.
Once ranked sets of five crabs are arranged on ice laid on a pallet. The reason for arranging them on the pallet is to make it easier to judge whether the crabs are good or bad. Crabs also have the habit of curling their legs to protect themselves when cooled rapidly, so it is also a way to maintain proper freshness.
Among them, the first to be lined up are the "Ichiban Crabs" which are the largest, weighing about 1.6 kg. Of course, these crabs tend to get high prices, but it is not certain, and crabs with lower ranks can fetch higher prices.
| At the season’s first auction, 5 male crabs sell for 380,000 yen
The crabs lined up are auctioned in the prearranged sets of five. While the highest price was 250,000 yen in 2019 for the first auction, in 2020, the first group of five managed to reach 380,000 yen. These auction prices are particular to the first auction and called a "congratulatory price.” Since Taiza aims for sustainable fishing practices, the catch is limited, and the average unit price has increased over time thanks to the quality as well.
The auctioneer presents the prices based on various criteria such as the situation and conditions that year and responses from fish brokers. The winning bidder is quickly determined, while keeping in mind the market price to keep the prices competitive but fair.
Successful bidders transport their crabs to various parts of the region, with about about 50% being distributed locally in places like inns and guest houses. The rest are shipped nationwide.
“Maizuru Crab” from Maizuru, a city of fish
Maizuru is another place where they store seawater in the bottom of the ship to bring back crabs free roaming in their tank. The crabs they bring back are immediately put up for auction and returned to their tanks. Only crabs packed with meat are certified as “Maizuru Crabs.”
Like the crabs in Kyotango, Maizuru’s are raised in a protected area about 20km off the coast of Maizuru in an environment where crabs are protected from intruders. The structure of the protected area has a great influence on the catch and quality, which is how Maizuru maintains such a high-quality crab.
| Tore Tore Center, for fresh crab on the spot
The roadside station "Maizuru Port Tore Tore Center" in Maizuru is a large seafood market of 480 tsubo (about 1588 square meters). Since the market is directly operated by fish brokers, you can get fresh seafood and crab at a reasonable price.
One of the main draws is that the seafood here can be prepared and eaten right there. Customers can have certain seafood cooked in front of them, prepared in different ways like grilled or sashimi.
Of course, you can also eat "Maizuru Crab," caught right in Maizuru, cooked to your preference: sashimi, grilled, boiled, etc. And it certainly worth noting that when you purchase the crab and have it prepared for you, you are not incurring a separate fee. They will prepare the crab free of charge. You can also have it prepared to be taken home as well.
Live tanks maintain the quality of the crabs here
At Tore Tore Center Maizuru, large tanks are set up to keep the crabs alive up until the moment customers purchase them, thus maintaining maximum freshness. The water temperature is strictly controlled at minus 4 ° C, and the water is thoroughly filtered to keep the water quality high.
It is often said that "crabs kept in tanks lose weight." That is true, crabs that have lived in tanks for more than a week will gradually lose weight.
However, this is not the case with the crabs at Tore Tore Center. And that is because the crabs that arrive are all dispensed with within a week. The crab tanks are divided according to the day they were caught, and the crabs are served to customers beginning with the ones that just arrived, so only fresh crabs are provided.
Also, if you put a lot of crabs in a single tank, some of the crabs may lose legs. Tore Tore center has devised ways to prevent this from happening, such as putting them in separate areas.
| The secret to perfecting boiled food
The crab at Tore Tore Center have a reputation for being cheap and delicious, often to the pleasant surprise of many customers. The boiled crab comes out of the pot looking like a flower, which is a moment of excitement for quite a lot of gourmet enthusiasts.
The secrets of the flavor are salt and boiling time. At first glance, it seems simple, but the culture actually runs quite deep, and each proprietor keeps their methods a well kept secret. If the water in the pot is shallow, it will turn black over time, and if it is too hot, the resulting crab won’t taste good.
The technique of adjusting the amount of salt and cooking time while carefully monitoring the taste of hot water takes extremely delicate judgment and really is a skilled technique.
Whenever possible, Tore Tore Center tries to only boil water after receiving an order from a customer. The crab is kept alive in its tank until just before cooking, ensuring the best possible cooking conditions. If you have time to wait (about an hour after ordering), you can eat freshly cooked crab.
If you want to eat it on the spot, you can have it served to you right there, making it an all encompassing experience.
This boiled crab is often taken home and shipped nationwide, and it is often said that this generous gift is so well-prepared that eating it when you get home, or even after shipping, is still an excellent experience.
Tastes best when eaten here
Fishermen, fish brokers and fishmongers are all familiar with the delicious crabs here. And of course that extends to the skillful preparation. Eating here, where the crabs are caught and kept fresh is without a doubt, the best way to have this delicacy.
The locations mentioned in this article are really amazing locations to get some of Japan’s best crab. In recent years, Kyoto has also extended the highway, making this area even easier to access. The appeal of visiting the source of crab culture is that you can have fresh crabs, alive right up until you order them.
Visit Kyoto by the Sea, where fishers are serving up the freshest and highest-quality branded crabs.